Like most reptiles who need UVB, Ackie Monitors can be prone to Metabolic Bone Disease. notes on the feeding of monitor lizards Monitor lizards of the genus Varanus have long been popular among reptile enthusiasts of all ages and levels of experience. Any Info on Them Would be Great Cheers DRB or they are known as a ridge tailed monitor The female will generally lay around 20 days after mating. Despite their tough guy appearance, they are relatively mild mannered, making them fabulous pets. Hello everyone!

You can buy a UV index monitor to read the levels of UV in the enclosure.

Making the substrate layer thick and moist will aid in keeping your monitor hydrated and shedding properly. The spots can vary from bright yellow to a more subdued cream. amount of food should be less. Often referred to as the Spiny-tailed Monitor or Ackies dwarf monitor, these lizards are part of the same genus as the Komodo Dragon. How Big Do Bearded Dragons Get?

Again, this would be best done on the warm side. The Yellow Ackie is similar in appearance to the Red Ackie, with the primary difference being the colour. However, they tend to be much less spiky. With this in mind I would recommend a 48” x 16” x 16” or larger glass terrarium from Creative Habitat and Penn Plax which we sell online and in our stores. The Canadian Food Inspection Agency prevents the import of them. They may also use the environment to get comfortable. If the lizard is on the skinny side, you can offer them rodents a little more frequently. I have an Ackie Monitor and live in Canada, so Dubia's are illegal here (unless freeze dried, which I've yet to find in store). All going well, babies should emerge after 90-120 days. This is great as it means they can become very accustomed to handling and over time can enjoy handling sessions and interacting with humans. This should consist of a variety of different insects such as crickets, mealworms, locusts and small roaches. These humid burrows are important habitats for the Ackie as they help them control their temperature and humidity requirements. Once I tried a FT pinkie and while interested, she didn't eat it. I’ve seen my ackie dig for roaches sometimes, it was pretty cool. impactions in the digestive tract of the monitor. In fact, they’re one of the ONLY larger lizards to be considered beginner friendly. As an Ackie Monitor owner, you’ll need to do your best to replicate their natural environment. Dust their food with a vitamin 2 times a week, on days they donit receive calcium. The Ackie Monitor belongs to the Varanus (Monitor) genus of Reptiles. are also commonly offered.

solidified which make them difficult to pass. The first Ackie Monitor coloration is that of the “Red Ackie” which showcases a dark reddish brown body peppered with brown spots all over the head and body.

By providing ample UVB and calcium, and feeding in accordance to what is recommended in this Care Sheet, both of these ailments can be easily avoided. A growing monitor should be feed everyday. Why? Try feeding them with tongs and talking to them more. Be sure to place it all the way to the warm side so they can absorb UVB while basking. Ackie Monitor Diet & Feeding Key Takeaways: Ackie Monitors possess a healthy appetite and will eat just about anything, which means owners should be wise to adjust feedings and treats to avoid their pet becoming obese.

You should refrain from excessive handling until the lizard is comfortable with you. This can be accomplished simply by you turning the light on in the morning and turning it of at night, or by a timer. As with any young lizard, you should give your monitor time to acclimatise before trying to handle them. If you chose the right substrate, you shouldn’t have issues maintaining high humidity levels. Ackie Monitor Background Key Takeaways: Ackie Monitors are fascinating, prehistoric looking reptiles that share lineage with some of the world’s most intimidating lizards – like the Komodo Dragon! The less stress the lizard is under before you interact with them, the easier the encounter will be. Ackie Monitors tend to be tame by nature and can be a joy to handle and interact with. This isn’t a species that will do well in a small enclosure. Expert Tip: To maximize the size of your Ackie Monitor and ensure they live a long life, it is crucial you provide them with a proper diet and habitat setup from a very young age. If possible, offer your monitor around a foot of substrate. When I first got my Ackie, he was 6 months old and 12 inches long. Zoo Med’s Deep Dome and Mini Deep Dome light fixtures are the best way to house your bulbs because the do not protrude out of the bottom of your fixture. They are generally a docile species but will take a bit of time to get accustomed to you. If they are starting to gain weight, reduce the number of insects that you offer each day.

Again, it is important to assess the health of your monitors before breeding.

While they are a medium sized lizard, they are considered ‘Dwarf’ Monitors, as they are much smaller than many other species of Monitor lizards. Zoo Med’s Eco earth when lightly compressed in the cage holds it shape and humidity nicely as do most coconut beddings and cypress chip bedding are all highly recommended . Whichever method you choose, you need to ensure you choose a bulb that emits enough UBV. The scales create the lizard’s signature spiky look. The Ackie Monitor is found throughout most of the North-Western section of Australia. high enough to digest anything. For the first couple of weeks they do great in tubs with a wet paper towel substrate.

The back of Ackies is dark brown. when they have access to proper heat (130 degrees +) their metabolism becomes more popular due partially to their large adult size and their prolific reproduction. This means your enclosure will have a long and reliable lifespan whereas a wood enclosure may only last a few years. You’ll want to combine these two and add warm water until the substrate is dense enough to support a burrow. Ackie monitors come from tough environments in the wild that take some initial work to replicate. For their basking spot, aim for 120 degrees Fahrenheit for babies (hatchlings) and 130-140 degrees Fahrenheit for juveniles and adults. Ackie monitors (or spiny tailed monitors) make a good first monitor lizard or a step up from the more commonly kept agamid lizards such as bearded dragons. There are plenty of tutorials online that you can follow that make the building process a breeze. Give your monitor some time to acclimate to their new home. So, if you’d like to learn more about proper Ackie Monitor care, simply keep reading! However, like any other reptile, you have to build up that trust first. Growing monitors need lots of calcium to support bone

Put off by the idea of having to make an enclosure yourself?

If you want, artificial plants are good, too. They are an active lizard and will need a large enclosure with plenty of space to move and climb. Unlike wooden enclosures, PVC does not rot or warp when it gets damp.

Most owners will use a screened lid rather than sliding or swinging side doors to reserve that space for burrowing. It simply means they’re not quite ready to be handled or touched by you. First, they pull moisture from the air ( which is why humidity is so important). Don’t be! However, that doesn’t mean that caring for this reptile will be a walk in the park!

This results in brittle bones, deformities, and a range of other problems. They can also pull moisture from the ground when they burrow. Their mild mannered temperament and ease of care couple with their awesome appearance makes their appeal a no-brainer. The Ackie Monitor is an active lizard and will therefore need a large enclosure to give it enough room to roam around. Expert Tip: If you find that your Ackie Monitor is retreating from your touch or burrowing to hide, rest assured this is normal behavior. Ackie monitors need a good amount of humidity to stay healthy. Ackie Monitor Care Sheet: Habitat, Diet, and Care Advice for Owners. Ackies monitors use burrowing to get away from the Australian heat. Any lights in the enclosure should be turned off at night. Accompanying that rich color are contrasting spots and stripes.

Just make sure you choose plants that are reptile safe. UVB lamps go out after about six months of use, but many owners don’t realize it! Ackie monitors have a temperament that’s pretty well suited for captivity. For hatchlings I recommend feeding enough crickets or other insects, of appropriate sizes, until the monitor no longer shows interest eating. You’ll want to use one that supplies between 10 and 12% UVB, like this one here. These lizards also bask in the sun, utilising the Ultraviolet rays from the sun to synthesise Vitamin D3. my monitor in captivity? Although a class enclosure may naturally be your first choice for your Ackie Monitor… you may want to rethink it.

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